Stark minimalism, nonchalant layers and a soupon of shine - designers served it all up on the New York runways.
Yeohlee: Yeohlee Teng stuck with her signature architectural vein, citing Antoni Gaud as a major influence. However, the famed architect's fantastical designs had little resonance in Teng's tailored, minimalist collection rendered in a stark palette of gray, black and white. Her slim-cut, high-waisted wool trousers looked great with simple white cotton shirts, and a few black dresses - one in particular with a low-cut back - were practically perfect. But Teng got carried away with an avant-garde bustle theme that ran throughout. While it gave an interesting volume to her stretch wool coats, it just didn't work in the taffeta and satin numbers.
Yigal Azroul: Continuing his winning streak for fall, Yigal Azroul honed his skills with layering and proportion in a collection that had a cool, intentionally disheveled sophistication. His muted palette came alive when he mixed textures and lengths: Short leather jackets topped long, chunky sweaters, which in turn were worn over thin henleys and loose pants. Of course, he showed his signature draped jersey dresses too, but what really worked were the piled looks that all had a throw-it-on-and-go ease.
BCBG Max Azria: Max Azria hinted in his show notes that fall would emphasize details and textures. Boy, he wasn't kidding. While the requisite pretty, salable dresses came out, so too did a parade of frocks, skirts and jackets that suffered from too many ideas, sometimes all in one garment. Some were good notions, like the black appliqu yoke on a brown, swingy jersey shift. But overall, the feathers, ribbons, ruching and chain mail were a recipe for clutter.
Miss Sixty: The "Dreamgirls" hoopla isn't reserved for the red carpet. It also made its way onto Miss Sixty's runway, where creative director Wichy Hassan went slightly overboard on the lams and metallics, as in that bronze jumpsuit. However, when used in moderation, the shine worked nicely in the cropped gold leggings and the teal kimono-style sweater dress. As usual, denim was the strength - especially the high-waisted wide-leg trousers. And a short-sleeved puffer coat bedecked with kitschy prints of faces was a perfect example of the Italian brand's fun personality. yanzic0608.
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