Simons' spring is all about precision: clinical cuts and bold strokes of color - various pinks and blues, sometimes with white or black - for a body-lengthening line, often measuring the obvious geometry against veilings either spare and angular or in wildly spun clouds of tulle. He opened strong, with a sheer poncho over a two-toned tailored tube in blue and gray and skinny, bright orange pants. Simons also showed numerous jackets cut high over hourglass knit tops and pants, setting up a three-part geometry that approached body-conscious tailoring from a whole new direction. He worked different fabrics - wool suiting and organza - in the same piece. He countered the linear shapes with volume in full pants, casual, billowing dresses and more demonstrative little sylph frocks crafted from what looked like multiple squares of tulle or organza taken in a bunch and fastened strategically.
Throughout, the transparency ebbed and flowed, at times revealing nothing more than a shock of bright orange or blue beneath, while at others, displaying the curve of the model's back or her body naked but for bright white briefs. Either way, Simons maintained decorum along with sexiness, ultimately offering definitive proof that elegance is not a retro concept.
Bottega Veneta: When a designer himself describes his collection as being "of pronounced subtlety and quiet," can one avoid the thought, "Uh-oh"? Luckily, however, Tomas Maier's self-assessment was on target in the loveliest sense and not as code for dull. The Bottega Veneta lineup he showed on Tuesday drifted by with an engaging retro feel of the archetypal back-when Italian movie-star sort. At its core was the dress - sheath, sack, bustier, bubble and especially the shirtdress. Maier projected a smoldering earthiness in natural-toned gabardines and linens, a waist cinched with a sporty belt and an appealing rumpled skirt. yanzic0608.
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