Like beauty, inspiration is in the eye of the beholder. Isabel Toledo, for one, channels her own emotions, while others flock to the design library, a treasure trove of ideas.
Toledo State of Mind
SHOES FIRST. THAT'S HOW ISABEL TOLEDO GETS dressed every morning. "It's just easier that way," says the designer. "Just like clothes, shoes can really dictate your mood for the day." Unusual? Perhaps, but Toledo has never been one to take the conventional route.
In the 21 years she's been in business, Toledo, 45, has established a line with a cult following. Her collections are known to be shapely and neat, with discreet details that all make for an idiosyncratic take on chic. Never one to follow trends, Toledo determines her looks each season by assessing her current state of mind. "Sometimes I want wide pants, sometimes I want jodhpurs," says the designer, whose Toledo Studio is the most recent winner of the Cooper Hewitt National Design Award for Fashion.
For fall, Toledo is feeling moody. Inspired by paintings that were done in 1989 by her husband, famed illustrator Ruben Toledo ("imaginary Spanish Inquisition family portraits" is how he describes his works), the collection features sumptuous fabrics, many of them two-toned, worked into hit-every-curve shapes.
"This collection is all about dark shadows," says the designer. "But not 'spooky castle' dark. It's more like 'spooky forest.'" The "natural element," she adds, is what keeps the line humble and approachable. "It's very important to me that things be friendly. I like clothes that look like you've had them for a while."
Toledo also strives to create clothes that are comfortable to wear, regardless how fitted they are. The trick, she says, is to use the right fabric on each part of the body. "Form with flaws is how I would explain it," she explains. "There's a skirt in the fall line, for instance, that is made of a heavy tweed, but along the waist I used a lighter fabric in the same color combination. Not only does it make the skirt more comfortable, but it creates shape and dimension as well."
When picking her fabrics, Toledo gives little thought to silhouette or theme. Instead, "it's all emotion." As she "dissects" a textile header, Toledo cuts tiny shapes right into it; the shapes are later placed on a board and her husband then completes the "sketch." yanzic0510.
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