搜索此博客

2013年3月30日星期六

the popular medieval belief that associates belts and knots with the supernatural


Noting the homonymie play between ‘plaie’ and ‘plait’. Sun Mee
Gertz sees Guigemar’s wound, his knot, and the belt he gives his lady as
tokens ‘of recognition that should remind [Guigemar] (and Marie’s readers)
of the wounded hind and its prophecy, of how they met, and of how they
are “bound” to one another in love’.”"^ Here Marie engages not only gift-giving
as the recognition motif that Ciertz highlights, but also the popular medieval
belief that associates belts and knots with the supernatural.^ Marie’s strategy
(jf knotting draws upon a tradition of folklore and magic that is at least as old
as Virgil’s Eclogms and evident in later medieval texts, like Albert the Great’s
thirteenth-century De animc tbus (f. 1250) and the Pi’i/rZ-poet’s fourteenth-century
Sir Cawain and the Green Knight!”* Just as Virgil and Albert the Great write of
io6 MEDIUM ^vuM i.xxvii.i
magical knots that can promote either success or impotence in love, so does
Marie’s Guigemar demonstrate that those who exchange knots and belts remain
loyal and continent.^” Moreover, Guigemar’s knots – the tourniquet and the shirt
- affect his bodily powers, much as Sir Cuwain and the Green Kitighfi pentangle and
girdle – the former called an ‘endeles knot’ (line 650) and the latter ‘loken vnder
[Gawain's] lyfte arme … with a knot’ (line 2487) – impact on Gawain’s chivalric
exploits.”’ Marie, however, ultimately modifies conventional understanding of
knots in significant ways.
1100000000000000
Although these late medieval examples rely on the supernatural elements
of knots in order to ensure continence, the instances in Guigemar do not.
As Helen Cooper has recently argued, romances characteristically lean on
magic, but magic often docs not determine events in the narrative. Rather, the
protagonists’ own initiatives or emotions do.^- Such is the case in Guigemar.
Marie presents an interesting revision to the conventional use of supernatural
knots in romance by using magic ‘non-magically’, so that the hero ‘bring[s] out
something In himself’.” Guigemar and his lady use their respective knots to
demonstrate the courtJy ideal of self-control. Their discipline is morally sound,
despite their appearance as tightly clad individuals who, according to the clerics,
would probably behave sinfully. Their dress acts as a metonym for fidelity, not
a magical talisman that either ensures or wards off love.^?’ That Guigemar’s tied
shirt serves as a materialization of the courtier’s everlasting presence when he
can no longer be by his lover’s side might be understood as Marie’s sartorial
rendition of depicting lovers who are bound in dieir devotion. In this way, Marie
anticipates what Andreas Capcllanus’ courtier proposes to his beloved in De
amorr. ‘et ego, quamvis corpore videar discedere, corde tamen vobis coUigatus
exsisto’ (p. 96; ‘I ma\’ seem to depart from you in the body, but in my heart I
shall always be bound to you’). Guigemar may leave his lady after their affair
is discovered, but their knots emphasize a faithful connection – much like
the one Andreas’s lover experiences when he figuratively ties himself to his
beloved – which endures through mutual agreement rather than magic. In this
way, Marie understands tight dress as a new art of courdy love – one that not
only influences the behaviours of Guigemar and his lady, but also bears upon
amorous adventures in later romances.’^
By associating the manipulation of garments witb virtuous behaviour,  Marie
once again engages witb clerical understanding of dress.
Clerics would recognize
the handling or knotting of fabric in one of two apparentiy incompatible ways:
either as a metaphor to illustrate  chaste behaviour or as a sign of diabiilical sexual
excess. For instance. Henry ll’s clerk, Gerald of Wales (i.i 145-1223).

non-Kibbutz Israelis hoped and expected Kibbutz members to retain their unique dressing style


noted that folk dress should emerge gradually and naturally and
cannot be imposed artificially. One year later, a male member ofthe same
Kibbutz wrote that it was difficult to consolidate a uniform agricultural
national folk dress in Israel’s dynamic immigrant society, but he hoped
that in time “our stability and rootedness would be reflected in our
dress.
10000000000000000000
” However, since the foundation of tbe state, “Americanism and
snobbery” and contagious evil petit-bourgeois attitudes have spread
even into Kibbutzim. Therefore, in order to keep the pioneering spirit
and the unique Kibbutz lifestyle, “our dress should be simple, modest
and comfortable (less eager to follow journal-dictated fashion).”"
Indeed, the basic guidelines of Kibbutz anti-fashion and its antibourgeois
tones were maintained to a certain degree even among the
highest ranks. Unlike some Israeli delegates, who openly flaunted
expensive clothes which they bought when abroad (Rozin 2002: 101),
Kibbutz members who served as Israeli emissaries, parliament members,
and cabinet ministers “dressed down” even in formal events. They
reluctantly consented to wear black suits and starched white shirts
332 Ana? Helman
(maintaining the typical colors of Kibbutz Sabbath clothes), but flatly
refused to wear ties, which they regarded as the ultimate trademark of
bourgeois culture. They had to explain to their foreign hosts and guests
that this informality was a long-time custom of theirs and in no way a
sign of disrespect: even in the opening ceremony of the newly founded
Israeli parliament they wore no ties (Bankover 1975: 133).
Kibbutz sartorial culture was going through some changes in the
1950s and fashion was apparent alongside growing material comfort,
increasing heterogeneity, and gradual modifications in the collectivistic
framework. Those Israelis who wanted to manifest pioneering national
ideals, especially members of youth movements, wore apparels that
somewhat resembled Kibbutz Sabbath clothes (Almog 1997: 317,
324-8; Raz 1996: 160-1), thus making Kibbutz style less exclusive. Yet
Kibbutz anti-fashion still managed to serve both its external purpose of
setting the group apart by a distinctive took, and its internal purposes
of accommodating the Kibbutz work-orientated lifestyle, expressing
and confirming its basic ideals, and maintaining a certain amount of
equality and uniformity among its members.
Whereas Kibbutz members were internally arguing whether change
was desirable or not and to what degree, it seems as if non-Kibbutz
Israelis hoped and expected Kibbutz members to retain their unique
dressing style. The Kibbutz male native was strongly and favorably
associated with modest clothes and resistance to pretentious elegance
{Tafrit 1949). In the early 1950s, when clothes were rationed as part
of Israel’s postwar austerity policy, the editor of a women’s periodical
demanded that more clothing coupons be distributed to urban women
and workers, who supposedly “needed” more clothes than agricultural
laborers and female Kibbutz members {Ha-ishah bamedinah 1950).
Glamorous dress was explicitly and exclusively associated with “the
urban girl” {Ha’olam hazeh 1955). The beauty advisor of a women’s
magazine was addressed in 1950 by a young Kibbutz female member,
who announced that she does not regret leaving the easy life of the
city for the life of hard work in the Kibbutz, but asked what to do
about her skin, which was seriously damaged by the sun. The advisor
replied that since makeup was “unsuitable for your surroundings,” only
facial cream and massaging the face with her hands should be applied
(L?-ishah 1950a). The modesty and simplicity of Kibbutz dress was
approved of, and supported by, Israeli society at large.
Even the right-wing revisionists, who objected to the Kibbutzim on
ideological and political grounds, criticized the moral and material
transformation from Kibbutz modesty to urban luxury.
http://www.mltailor.com/blog/?p=96634

2013年3月29日星期五

Japan kimono type jacket is popular


introduction: the spring and summer of 2013, as the Prada new season first Look out slowly from the background, Japan kimono type style come once again… Minimalist style, Oriental spirit rhyme of type, real surprise in the small coat, it is chased by fashionable people.
1
John Galliano for Dior show in 2008
In 2008, when the designer John Galliano is in the most brilliant time, Dior spring and summer haute couture hard playing a handful of Japanese art, it is a type style for the most extreme interpretation of insider has talked excitedly about clothes – that quarter every work of art is, in any detail profile, both the east and the west, zen and wild, but not everything that can be worn.
2
Collar cutting ropes
How to define a elegant jacket with big sleeves belonging to the kimono type style? The secret lies in whether the collar for plane cutting: the collar must be impossible to have a stand, and clothes must be able to be out of a plane… If it conforms to the points a zen can wear out every minute. As for the length of the coat, long have amorous feelings, short of taste, all individual situation to see how to choose. A similar cloth belt is necessary. Open loose tees is more westernized, but as the east face, a belt may save us not too long legs, also can avoid the embarrassment of the clothes wearing into pajamas.
killer of Mysterious type
3
collocation of kimono coat
With strong national representative of the item is not an easy task, but the wind jacket is an exception. In the fashion industry, it almost become create comfortable but slightly mysterious killer modelling, model Hanna and a prominent blogger Susie mercifully, choose kimono coat appeared on the fashion week. Hanna with a baggy shorts and wind coat with jeans, will long hair down at random, with a lazy attitude. Susie was have printing, long the traditional kimono bathrobe – on the back of this style may be more comfortable fit slightly higher, but with typical Oriental mysterious face.
For more information about fashion dress, visit our site flower petal dress .

Standard poor’s report about the latest development trend of luxury goods


According to standard poor’s report published recently shows that luxury goods makers can not escape from the global economic slump like the previous two years, in 2013, their sales are bound to change with economic conditions, the growth certainly exist, but have been unable to reproduce the glory of first two years.
2012122520044774f48
The French luxury group LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, PPR group, Remy Cointreau ‘s cognac can maintain high growth rate next year, but profits will inevitably declined. In 2011 the growth rate of the three group were 14%, 22% and 25%, in 2012, the growth rate has dropped significantly, especially in the third quarter performance more bad. Thus, the standard & poor’s analyst Caroline Duron said: “we believe profits of these luxury goods manufacturers in this year have obvious drop, but they always is the highest part of the consumer category profit, we believe that the future cash flow is strong, if the economic situation is not too bad, so we believe that these luxury group, also can maintain stable development.”
http://www.mltailor.com/blog/?p=96543

2013年3月26日星期二

earning money in China Mainland, spending money in other countries: oversea luxury goods are 70% more expensive than in China


Relevant data shows, 2011 Chinese tourists overseas consumption nearly 300 billion yuan. 529.6 billion yuan in 2012, compared with 2011 overseas spending surge. Obviously, 2013 will continue to maintain high growth. In the global economic downturn, favored by the European debt problem, the United States under the background of “fiscal cliff” effect, Chinese tourists overseas consumption, for the global economy and made important contribution to the GDP of other countries.
In China to earn money, spend money in another country, it has become a lot of rich Chinese way of life. Despite slowing growth in China, is to adjust the economic structure, is rich in domestic spending to boost domestic demand, but we also should respect the rich consumer rights abroad. We need to do is, think about why Chinese tourists are keen to overseas consumption, how to
increase domestic consumer market magnetic to attract rich people’s consumption.
FD6C74FDACC746D21F770608F711E687
Chinese tourists are keen to overseas spending, first is the problem of money. Not only illustrate the rich wealth grew rapidly, and shows that income gap is widening. The rich have no trouble back at home, will naturally let go of the hands and feet. Of course, does not rule out some people to take public funds for consumption abroad. This suggests we should pay attention to the rich spending money to come from abroad.
Followed by the lure of the overseas market. Is much lower cost than domestic overseas consumption on the one hand, especially in the rich consumer psychology of luxury goods prices, there are, according to data from China mainland luxury prices 70% higher on average than the French, 50% higher than that of the United States, about 45% higher than in Hong Kong… Mainland high prices due to import and export tariff, value-added tax, consumption tax is too high. Is said to have three kinds of taxes and fees, will be more than 60%. Overseas consumption market, on the other hand, some of the products, better quality assurance in China. This suggests china need to focus on domestic consumption environment.

Goku King tiger dress scurrying milan, ZhenHuan go through the Byzantine


If you tell me the Monkey King tiger dress to wear to the Versace show, “zhen Huan biography of the qing dynasty palace luxury accessories to wear to the Dolce & Gabbana show, how would you imagine, milan fashion week of 2013 autumn winters is absolutely the most a stand to salute the Chinese ancient culture, this topic is dye-in-the-wood.
01

000001
001
Careful observation about 2013 autumn winters Dolce & Gabbana show, you will find some familiar? Sharp-eyed you will notice the models with accessories and unexpectedly in the TV series “the biography of enrollment Huan luxuriant wind qing is somewhat similar. Golden necklaces and pendants, including with rich Oriental amorous feelings, the large base wedge shoes, even in the points of the hair and bun and enrollment Huan similar to extremely. While most inspired by Domenico Dolce hometown fiorentina Byzantine cathedral murals, but the color and detail, it can be directly used for the enrollment Huan “sequel.
02
fresco rich Byzantine style of the dress and jewelry, compare the zhen Huan biography, also too like!!
03
The cusp shoe of Oriental amorous feelings restoring ancient style and wedge shoes, especially the latter, well suited to the Zhen Huan in “Zhen Huan Biography”!
04
05
I was shocked! Versace show should highlight the Monkey King’s famous tiger skirt, both color and texture pattern is very similar. Versace2013 fall/winter shows in a gust of wind, cool locomotive girl whether hale patent leather leather coat, or a zip and pointed boots such as punk flavour is dye-in-the-wood elements, all models as fatale, beautiful. Out of nowhere this bright yellow tiger stripes leather grass skirts and coats, is a thunder to our optic nerve.
For more information about fashion dress, visit our site celebrity red carpet dresses .

2013年3月25日星期一

It could be a magnificent color story with all this interest in colored jeans

the fabrics that we expect to be important for fall are brushed. I think that with that, the silhouette is getting back to the classic proportioned-to-fit."

For sheath bridal gown Riders, a new canvas denim fabric is expected to be a big winner in all jeans categories. "A two-by-two basket -weave gives it a lot of texture," said Melanie Albert. It will be introduced in two finishes --bleached and medium stonewash -- in regular five-pocket relaxed fit. Corduroy is another good candidate for success, Albert feels. "We think it will be important for fall and we're offering 11-wale, 9-ounce corduroy in the basic relaxed construction. Colors in denim and corduroy will be deep and saturated, as in the twill."

H.I.S.-Chic will also offer corduroy but Luehrs is dubious about the response. "We hear about people wanting it but we don't see a genuine move to buy it. It could be a magnificent color story with all this interest in colored jeans, but I'm afraid its market is restricted to men and women over 65 who buy it from catalogs. The head of our German company told me it's the same over there -- it's strictly for older people and younger ones therefore won't wear it."

The jury may still be out on corduroy jeans in the mass market, and the fickle consumer may opt for colored or brushed jeans for a while, but as Barry Zelman sums it up, "Blue denim has to be the foundation of any jeans program. It may not be as strong as it has been in the past, and it's very cyclical, with peaks and valleys. But it's always important. With the new EDI systems, and with the classic fit re-emerging, it will remain healthy."

VF has launched another women's line, Wrangler America jeans for women

Our December was just fabulous." Medium blue is the best color, though she has seen success in a dark shade, stonewashed indigo. "We're also offering deep saturated colors in twill. Forest and natural are going to be the most important colors, along with taupes and browns, we believe. We'll have another new finish in '94, 'authentic' indigo, a medium shade antiqued to have the look of authentic faded bluejeans."

VF has launched another women's line, Wrangler America jeans for women, and it's showing "very good sellthroughs in our initial test program," said Phillip Dunn, VP-general manager of Wrangler America. He has described the line as "non-Western jeans." They are proportioned to fit, and silhouettes include classic, relaxed, and loose. "We're still primarily in the fashion basics end of the business, with different stonewashes and overdyed blues and blacks, anywhere from light stone to the dark ranges, and with vintage-style finishes as well. Most of our sales are in the relaxed fit but I think the next transition will be into a looser silhouette. We do see the relaxed fit continuing at least through '94. Colors, including natural, will be a part of our mix."

Basics are the mainstay of the Rustler women's line as VP-general manager Alan Bell described it for DM. "The stonewash is still good for us and the black-overdyed-black. Retail sales were a little slow but Christmas was good. We just released a loose-fit silhouette a couple of weeks ago, but otherwise it's all relaxed right now. Our customer doesn't like a really loose, baggy fit, so the new style is just a little more opened up than the relaxed, with a relatively sheath bridal gown narrow leg opening. Our core product is strictly high-volume issues. When a new finish has proven it's going to be out there for a while, we'll jump in."

Kathy Hurley mentioned that Rose's will "probably be testing some of those worn looks. We definitely know it is a look the younger customer is wearing. But we're not yet convinced, without some positive test results, that our customer is willing to pay the price for that look. I think some customers distress the jeans themselves, and for others, it's somewhat of a hard sell because they may not understand the fashion. It's coming strong out of the European market and I think it translates easier in a specialty Japanese school uniforms store environment where there is sales help to explain the fashion aspects."

BRUSH UP YOUR JEANSWEAR
Texture is the area where some newness is predicted by most of the industry representatives interviewed. The Arkin spokesperson pointed out that "manufacturers are trying to add fashion to basic jeans with overdyeing and things like that, but I think the volume is going to be in brushed, colored denim goods."

The Midwestern buyer concurred. "Brushed, colored denim and corduroy look good and rayon velvet will be good for holiday. Velvet will be mostly in black or maybe wine, but corduroy offers a huge variety of color." Eric Rothfeld said that Sasson will have "a brushed canvas that's very interesting," and Natalya Khorover added that the company will also present "some new black velvets for fall," as well as overdyed black denims with velvet treatments.

At Rose's, Hurley said, "We sold anything we had with a brushed, sueded, or softer finish. That seems to be important in denim, particularly in the colored side of the business. Some of the brushed fabric treatments in blue denim are also great-looking but they add price to the product. I think we have to be really cautious when it comes to the retail. Here again, we don't know if the mass market customer will appreciate the extra processing that went into it and what it does to drive up the price."

Barry Zelman of Faded Glory outlined several new fabrics he will offer: "We're doing a lot of brushed fabrics, of course. One we're calling coarseweave canvas. It has a lot of texturing and we feel it's a new step up from sueded bull denim, which we're also still doing. We'll have both in a lot of colors. Along with that, we'll introduce pigment-dyed corduroy jeans. 

2013年3月21日星期四

people with brightly colored, conventionalized images of the clothing worn by its officials and citizens


Since styles of dress were assumed to persist as a form of custom, the
traveling student represented each city visited and its people with brightly
colored, conventionalized images of the clothing worn by its officials and
citizens. Like prints or small quartos, such books were highly transportable,
and they were organized according to a scheme shared by costume books:
images were arranged along a hierarchical grid beginning with monarchs
and nobles and descending to laborers and paupers. Sometimes the images
preserved in the albums included interleaved, sheath bridal gown , individual prints from wellknown
costume books already published. Unlike costume books, however,
these collections were personalized, assembled according to the preferences
of the individual collector and of the friend leaving his signature in the
owners album. The signatures of particular friends met during ones travels
took the form of autographs of distinguished scholars and noblemen
with paintings of their coats of arms accompanied by sententious mottos;
they thus constitute the album owners social circles, Japanese school uniforms . which are mobile, created
and expanded across time. The signatures of friends inserted into an
album amicorum, therefore, represent a particular, ongoing history, while the
clothes depicted within their pages were thought to be relatively unchanging,
and the friendships recorded were considered everlasting. In this sense,
illustrated albums created and represented a social self that was individualized
by the owners particular bonds and experiences; they also formed a
collective group portrait of oneself and ones friends, whose experiences of
the places visited and people seen are recorded in the album. These albums
then eventually became part of the private holdings of the elite families to
which the students returned.
Costume
The term costume book is a misnomer. Costume, as derived from the Latin
word consuetude, implies the customary function or use of dress in multiple
cultural contexts that precede the making of specific items of clothing.
As adornment rather than simple bodily covering, costume, unlike clothing,
assumes symbolic, ritualistic, and even superstitious valences. It can
mask identity or highlight aspects of the body and ritualize social etiquette.
Marieke de Winkel in her recent study of Rembrandts portraits defines cosRosenthal
/ Cultures of Clothing 475
tume as dress for special occasions like a masquerade, theater, or for a deliberate
reconstruction of a particular period.44 Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter
Stallybrass have demonstrated that the performances of theatrical companies
at the time of Shakespeare were shaped by the costumes they owned: the
guilds paid for costumes to be made; . . . accounts suggest the ability of the
clothes to absorb the very identity of the actors. In this sense, clothes retain
their value better than plays.

http://cassie2106.tumblr.com/post/45975592592/categorize-regional-dress-according-to-strictly


Dress, or “habit,” is therefore the opposite of fashion


Another form of identification system, a sort of Renaissance ethnography,
emerged in the numerous costume books printed in Europe
from the early sixteenth through to the seventeenth century. Movable type
placed clothing in a world in motion whereby costume book writers like
the Venetian Cesare Vecellio, travel authors, mapmakers, and tailors books
recognized the other or the exotic by deciphering the language of clothing
as the making of the human subject in relation to his or her geographical
place and time.
Dress, or habit, is therefore the opposite of fashion. trumpet wedding gowns .Dress works
to affirm the persistence of social patterns and to consolidate cultural ways of
life, despite the ways clothing can be transferred from subject to subject. In
addition, costume books encouraged viewers to focus on faraway places and
regional dress for its novelty and strangeness, yet this appeal to ethnographic
curiosity was not merely linked to a desire to change ones personal style
by adopting international fashion. From the mid-sixteenth through to the
seventeenth century, costume books articulated a language of national and
regional identity formation, even though fixed notions of place were being
called into question. Social distinctions, regionalized textiles, and accessories
no longer could define a single national identity. A persons garment was
a complex patchwork of dress derived from multiple nations. Yet the rapid
print circulation of images of dress often served to reinforce rather than to
break open strict codes. flower petal dress , And itinerant artists literally carried with them new
artistic conventions that circulated in manuscript form or as albums of drawings
available to the public.
472 Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies / 39.3 / 2009
The unprecedented speed whereby information was disseminated
and ideas and practices spread slowly began to erode sharp social and
national distinctions between countries and social groups. Nonetheless,
individuals were not always free to dress as they pleased. Sumptuary laws
controlled the use of fabrics, their colors, their weaves and cuts, not only
in order to enforce equality among citizens, affirm gender prescriptions,
and curtail excessive spending, but also to protect precarious economies. As
Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli claims in her essay, Reconciling the Privilege
of a Few with the Common Good: Sumptuary Laws in Medieval and Early
Modern Europe, this legislation was an instrument used to maintain and
reinforce social barriers and, therefore, provides an important source for
understanding the complex hierarchical structures of past societies.
http://ameblo.jp/maryjh/entry-11495714691.html