It could be a magnificent color story with all this interest in colored jeans

the fabrics that we expect to be important for fall are brushed. I think that with that, the silhouette is getting back to the classic proportioned-to-fit."

For sheath bridal gown Riders, a new canvas denim fabric is expected to be a big winner in all jeans categories. "A two-by-two basket -weave gives it a lot of texture," said Melanie Albert. It will be introduced in two finishes --bleached and medium stonewash -- in regular five-pocket relaxed fit. Corduroy is another good candidate for success, Albert feels. "We think it will be important for fall and we're offering 11-wale, 9-ounce corduroy in the basic relaxed construction. Colors in denim and corduroy will be deep and saturated, as in the twill."

H.I.S.-Chic will also offer corduroy but Luehrs is dubious about the response. "We hear about people wanting it but we don't see a genuine move to buy it. It could be a magnificent color story with all this interest in colored jeans, but I'm afraid its market is restricted to men and women over 65 who buy it from catalogs. The head of our German company told me it's the same over there -- it's strictly for older people and younger ones therefore won't wear it."

The jury may still be out on corduroy jeans in the mass market, and the fickle consumer may opt for colored or brushed jeans for a while, but as Barry Zelman sums it up, "Blue denim has to be the foundation of any jeans program. It may not be as strong as it has been in the past, and it's very cyclical, with peaks and valleys. But it's always important. With the new EDI systems, and with the classic fit re-emerging, it will remain healthy."