One may compare this image with the famous photograph, not in Life though of its ethos, by Horst of Gertrude Stein in the House of Pierre Balmain in 1946, with author and lecturer Rosamond Bernier and illustrator Eric. Of course, Horst has constructed his image from the contrast of the woman in a robust cloth coat separated from, with the visual device of her dog, the glamorous feminine model in the evening gown showing off fashion. Inevitably, Horst makes us aware in 1946 that there is as much style in the wool coat as there is in the evening gown. In like manner, Leen’s inclusion of the floor polisher performing an ancient and physically demanding task requires us to read Fath’s enterprise as equally arduous.
A similar penchant to the practical obtained for fashion over here as well. Life saw clearly in dollars and cents, which was one of its great appeals. In the November 10, 1947, issue, twins are depicted in $14.00 worth of clothing in 1939 terms and in 1947. Post-War inflation is evident in that one twin is not even fully dressed with the rising costs of the time. The pragmatism of this article is, of course, to think about ordinary clothes, not the gowns of Jacques Fath or Christian Dior. Even today as we see this image from a faraway nearly-fifty years, we recognize its empathetic aspect: everyone knows and feels the pangs of inflation and even more the callings of memory. There is nothing swank or exotic here, just the simple facts of a mother’s purchasing power.
Life reported on Paris and Florence as fashion centers for the New Look, fashion processes, and even for the combination of travelogue and foreign style that made for romantic images.
But life was also an ardent advocate of American design and designers. A cover story on “The Bold California Look” in the June 14, 1954, issue features the sportswear looks of California designers. It reads with enthusiasm:
Southern California offers its clothes designers a stimulating setting–more modem houses per acre than any place else in the U.S., a greater concentration of sports cars than any other section (10,000,not including plain U.S. convertibles) and a flock of long-legged girls with yearround tans. The designers, hitherto noted largely for inexpensive sports clothes, are now matching the setting with clothes that have a stimulating style all their own. They are simple in cut, use strong colors and bold patterns and are distinguished by the same assurance that Americans found so attractive in the new Italian styles. Sold in increasing quantities over the country, they are having a brightening influence on U.S. wardrobes.
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